Easy Way to Adjust Valves Chevy 350

Norcalcruizer

Hello all, I have SB Chevy 350 in my FJ40, the engine is a stock Gen 1 block. I have a slight lifter tap coming from the passenger side of the vehicle (2,4,6,8 side of block). I am a You Tube weekend warrior backyard mechanic and have been viewing some different videos of people adjusting the lifters. Some will do it with engine running at idle, valve cover off and tighten down the lifter until the tapping goes away. The other method I have seen is with engine off/valve cover off grabbing the lifters by hand and wiggling them until you find the one loose and tighten down quarter turn, run the engine and repeat until the lifter is quieted down.

Anyone have suggestions of the best method to do this? Any tips? These are just standard hydraulic lifters.

Thanks for any input!

2fpower

I am getting ready to do this for the first time tonight, and I plan to do the later method you mentioned. Rotate the engine to TDC for that cylinder, adjust the valves, move on.

myquestoyota

Hey 2fpower, is that on a SB Chevy or a 2F? That's what I do with my solid lifter 2F and the feeler gauges but don't think it's the best practice for hyd lifters.

terrx

Like myquestoyota said, it's got hydraulic lifters. If the oil was very old or dirty one could be sticking - try running an oil additive like Rislone for a bit. Also look for signs of an exhaust manifold leak. It might sound similar.

honk

Like myquestoyota said, it's got hydraulic lifters. If the oil was very old or dirty one could be sticking - try running an oil additive like Rislone for a bit. Also look for signs of an exhaust manifold leak. It might sound similar.

Terrx might be right - those lifters usually keep their adjustment if done correctly but can start to tick if they're gummed up.

Sometimes they'll be so worn that a small hole in the center of their cam faces makes them unable to pump up or keep being hydraulic.

Anyway, adjust them running. Turn the nut counterclockwise until the lifter ticks then clockwise until it stops ticking. The old ones specified 3/4 turn after ticking stops but there might have been changes since I worked with them so it's best to find out the right adjustment for your engine. You're preloading the spring inside when doing the post tick adjustments - keeps them from bouncing .

You'll be happy that you devised some sort of oil dam around each valve cover mounting - Chevy's DO throw some oil around. Pieces of cardboard, a garbage bag cut to fit around - something.

pb4ugo

I try never to adjust the valve while it's running, its just too messy for me. When GM built the engine they never adjusted the valves when it's running. If your going to adjust the valves, adjust all of them. You don't know what the previous person did. You will find the adjustment recommendations are all over the board from a 1/8 of a turn to 1 full turn after the backlash has been removed between the pushrod and rocker arm. I usually go 1/2 turn. I've seen folks do a 1/4 turn but then have to go back and re-adjust because some valves maybe clacking. Rotate the engine to #1 TDC. NOW adjust:
Intake Exhuast
1----------1
5----------3
7----------4
2----------8

Rotate crank 360 degrees
intake Exhaust
6----------6
3----------5
4----------7
8----------2

Or adjust each cyldr by following the firing order.

If you do it w/the engine running make adjustment turns after the valve lash quits

If you want to be exacting about it then follow these instructions

Engine Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Right Way

I'm not a fan of snake oil. Engine oil has detergent in it. Changing the oil more often can clean gummed up lifters, rings and oil deposits.

Gumby

I test backlash before doing the extra 1/4 turn by turning the pushrod lightly between my fingers. If you can't turn it, it's too tight.

there's no such thing as mechanic in a can. change the oil.

I have a set of clips. they are a pain in the dick. I have a cut away VC too. I prefer to do the non running way too.

Actually, I prefer not doing it at all with a Gen III motor.

myquestoyota

If you have a sticky lifter or two it doesn't hurt to run some rislone or even atf for a little bit just before you change the oil. But definitely change the oil.

Norcalcruizer

Upon further inspection I may have exhaust leak. It is really difficult to tell where the tapping/clicking is coming from. I retorqued exhaust manifold bolts and checked the three bolts that attach header to downpipe on exhaust. There is no gasket on the collector to header, just a rounded flange that seats into header. Any tips to locate exhaust leak? I read about shop vac through tail pipe to see where all leaks are in the system? Any other ideas to detect leak?

pbgbottle

I do mine like pb4ugo has posted. Engine off. For sure if you have any kind of decent oil pressure that oil will be squirting all over the place. Just did mine last month hadn't checked them in over 10 years. My engine has seem to of always ticked ,
After adjusting lifters Some still ticked. Oh well mine have been ticking for years. Lol recently Drove the engine 2200 miles round trip all on the I5 to California and back. Engine ran like a top. No issues other than a little lifter noise. Maybe change the oil a few more times. Lol

Norcalcruizer

It definitely seems like there is some "lead way" in adjusting them, some say half turn, some 3/4 and some full turn (after ticking goes away). The Gen 1 engines are so dang basic, almost like a tractor engine chugging away. I think what you definitely do not want to do is tighten them too much, loose is a better option. I am going to take a look at them tomorrow and pop off the valve cover.

Norcalcruizer

My neighbor is a mac tool rep and let me borrow his stethoscope. Turns out it is exhaust leak, that stethoscope worked great. Was super easy to hear the leak coming from manifold. Good news is $15 in parts to repair, and luckily my manifold bolts are not rusted on. I was able to break them free with no issues.

pbgbottle

here is one way i like to do it cause I'm lazy and you only have to rotate the engine around once ,
set to TDC do half rotate and do the other half done , this info says to tightend after zero lash one complete turn .

,,

Weber Sarge

Isolating engine noises is all about the sound frequency and speed - if it's very fast and higher pitch it's related to components that move the same as the engine crankshaft , slow noises are cam related due to turning at half the crank's speed . Valve tick is just that at idle , it's consistent and a notable tick every time the cam hits that lobe on the loose lifter/valve . I always adjusted them 1/2 turn past tick , but I can hear things others can't for some reason , always been that way .

Sarge

Easy Way to Adjust Valves Chevy 350

Lifter tap/adjustment - Chevy 350 (1 Viewer)

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